Written from Japan

The parts of Japan travel the big guides skip.

Unwritten rules, tricky bookings and the small details that decide whether a day goes smoothly. Every fact is checked against the official source, with the date we checked it.

Onsen & ryokan

Tattoos in Japan: The Official Rules, the Unspoken Rules, and 4 Ways to Still Enjoy Onsen

Why Japan is strict about tattoos, the habits that keep things smooth, and four ways to still soak — from ryokan with private baths to tattoo-OK onsen in Hakone.

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Coming next

Kyushu ryokan with private onsen

Where to stay in Kyushu when you want the bath to yourself.